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New Growth

The Art and Texture of Black Hair

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The Visual Arts of Africa and Its Diasporas

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Book

Pages: 216

Illustrations: 78 illustrations, incl. 32 in color

Published: December 2022

From Frederick Douglass to Angela Davis, “natural hair” has been associated with the Black freedom struggle. In New Growth Jasmine Nichole Cobb traces the history of Afro-textured coiffure, exploring it as a visual material through which to reimagine the sensual experience of Blackness. Through close readings of slave narratives, scrapbooks, travel illustrations, documentary films, and photography as well as collage, craft, and sculpture, from the nineteenth century to the present, Cobb shows how the racial distinctions ascribed to people of African descent become simultaneously visible and tactile. Whether examining Soul Train’s and Ebony’s promotion of the Afro hairstyle alongside styling products or how artists such as Alison Saar and Lorna Simpson underscore the construction of Blackness through the representation of hair, Cobb foregrounds the inseparability of Black hair’s look and feel. Demonstrating that Blackness is palpable through appearance and feeling, Cobb reveals the various ways that people of African descent forge new relationships to the body, public space, and visual culture through the embrace of Black hair.

Praise

“With verve and panache, Jasmine Nichole Cobb moves across a stunning archive and a wide swath of surprising and eclectic materials in the study of Black hair. Beautifully written and meticulously researched, New Growth is particularly useful for thinking through the aesthetics of freedom, the relationship between surface and interiority, the haptics of racism, the sensations of flesh, and the limitations of slavery capitalism for understanding Black value.” - C. Riley Snorton, author of Black on Both Sides: A Racial History of Trans Identity

“In this brilliantly conceived and groundbreaking book, Jasmine Nichole Cobb provides startling new insights about the entanglements of Black hair with the archive, the political, and the visual. New Growth will surprise and linger with readers, and it will make a highly influential contribution to gender studies, cultural studies, visual studies, and Black studies for years to come.” - Sarah Haley, author of No Mercy Here: Gender, Punishment, and the Making of Jim Crow Modernity

"This book is important for anyone interested in symbolism and Black hair (primarily in the American context) with transferability to wider audiences interested in the visual and cultural production of Black bodies through hair practice. Above all, New Growth reminds us, hair is not just an aesthetic; it is form, materiality, symbol, performance and embodied racial construction." - Sweta Rajan-Rankin, Ethnic and Racial Studies

"[Cobb's] analytical savvy pushes readers to think about research that centers Black hair in ways that have been lacking in previous studies. This is what great scholars do. . . . New Growth captures this history by telling the story of how we got to this moment and how we might imagine haptic Black futures. For that, Cobb is to be thanked, and her groundbreaking text, celebrated." - Ingrid Banks, American Historical Review

"New Growth, free of jargon and full of insightful analyses, is a vital history of images and ideas of and about the naturalness of Black hair. Readers interested in the histories of hairdressing and self-fashioning; Black entrepreneurship and publishing in the personal care industry; design aesthetics; Black Power imagery in magazines, film, and television; and recent scholarship on 'surfacism' and visual sensation will find this book especially helpful." - Tiffany E. Barber, Art Bulletin

"As Cobb nimbly demonstrates, Black hair, in any form, invites the opportunity to appreciate the racial past in speculation of a liberated future that must be felt through." - Lauren Michele Jackson, American Literary History

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Author/Editor Bios

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Jasmine Nichole Cobb is Professor of African and African American Studies and of Art, Art History, and Visual Studies at Duke University. She is the author of Picture Freedom: Remaking Black Visuality in the Early Nineteenth Century.

Table Of Contents

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List of Illustrations  viii
Acknowledgments  xiii
Introduction. New Growth: Black Hair and Liberation  1
1. Archive: Slavery, Sentiment, and Feeling  25
2. Texture: The Coarseness of Racial Capitalism  57
3. Touch: Camera Images and Contact Revisions  97
4. Surface: The Art of Black Hair  131
Conclusion. Crowning Gestures  155
Notes  161
Bibliography  177
Index  193

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