Prologue  ix

Acknowledgements  xiii

1. The Fire  1

2. Writing, Reality, Truth  10

3. Don Rafo  15

4. The Informal Economy  18

5. Nacho  25

6. The Bolivian Experiment  33

7. Meet the Press 42

8. The Colonial City: Cochabamba, 1574–1900  46

9. Conflicts of Interest  54

10. Decolonizing Ethnographic Research  58

11. A Visit to the Cancha  64

12. The Informal State  74

13. The Modern City: Cochabamba, 1900–1953  80

14. Market Space, Market Time  87

15. Carnaval in the Cancha  95

16. Security and Chaos  102

17. The Informal City: Cochabamba, 1953–2014  108

18. Convenios  117

19. Political Geography  122

20. Fieldwork in a Flash  131

21. Women's Work  139

22. Sovereignty and Security  148

23. Resisting Privatization  154

24. Don Silvio  161

25. Character  167

26. Exploitability  175

27. Market Men  182

28. Webs of Illegality  190

29. Men in Black  194

30. At Home in the Market  200

31. Owners of the Sidewalk  207

32. The Seminar  214

33. March of the Ambulantes  222

34. Complications  230

35. The Archive and the System  235

36. Goodbyes  240

37. Insecurity and Informality  246

Epilogue  252

Notes  257

References  293

Index  313

"... a cogent and compelling critique of how the move toward neoliberal economic policies has affected the lives of formal (those with fixed stalls) and informal (street) vendors." — Arthur D. Murphy, American Ethnologist

"Weaving the background histories and theoretical discussions throughout the more narrative storytelling presentation, results in a thoughtful ethnography that contributes much to the field of anthropology as well as to the body of literature focused on markets in Latin America."
  — Alana Nicole DeLoge, Bolivian Studies Journal

"... a cogent and compelling critique of how the move toward neoliberal economic policies has affected the lives of formal (those with fixed stalls) and informal (street) vendors." —Arthur D. Murphy, American Ethnologist

"Weaving the background histories and theoretical discussions throughout the more narrative storytelling presentation, results in a thoughtful ethnography that contributes much to the field of anthropology as well as to the body of literature focused on markets in Latin America."
  —Alana Nicole DeLoge, Bolivian Studies Journal

"Superbly researched and beautifully executed, Owners of the Sidewalk will be particularly effective at teaching students about methodology and fieldwork as well as collaborative ethnography and its challenges, all while providing a great example of a really well written ethnography. Daniel M. Goldstein's detailed descriptions bring La Cancha and its characters to life, and his successful weaving together of history, method, theory, and the insights of the people he worked with has created a unique and outstanding book that will be welcomed by specialists and generalists alike." — Lynn Stephen, author of We Are the Face of Oaxaca: Testimony and Social Movements

"With great empathy, a keen eye for detail, and a novelist’s sense of drama, Daniel M. Goldstein vividly transports us to the everyday lifeworld of street vendors in Cochabamba, Bolivia. Owners of the Sidewalk sensitively portrays the conflicts and contradictions surrounding the organization of ambulatory and fixed commerce, and does so with more insight than any other book I have encountered. Goldstein’s respect for and rapport with his subjects informs this compelling narrative, revealing how street sellers pursue livelihoods in difficult conditions marked by insecurity, social conflict, gendered and racial divides, as well as a history of state intervention in which regulatory rules are ambiguously enforced." — Diane E. Davis, Charles Dyer Norton Professor of Regional Planning and Urbanism, Harvard University

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