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  • Work!: A Queer History of Modeling

    Pages: 368
    Illustrations: 79 illustrations, incl. 71 in color
    Sales/Territorial Rights: World
  • Cloth: $104.95 - Not In Stock
  • Paperback: $27.95 - Not In Stock
  • Acknowledgments  ix
    Illustrations  xiii
    Introduction  1
    1. From the Artist's Model to the Photographic Model: Containing Sexuality in the Early Twentieth Century  25
    2. Race, Sexuality, and the 1920s Stage Model  69
    3. Queering Interwar Fashion: Photographers, Models, and the Queer Production of the "Look"  103
    4. Black Models and the Invention of the US: "Negro Market," 1945-1960  163
    5. "You've Got to Be Real": Constructing Femininity in the Long 1970s  211
    Epilogue  271
    Notes  277
    Bibliography  313
  • “Rigorously researched and eloquently argued, Work! is a brilliant and unique book that merges theory, method, and empirical historical work to create a new understanding of capitalism, sexuality, and the image. Elspeth H. Brown changes our approach to the history of sexuality and sets a new standard for studies of capitalism and culture.” — Nan Enstad, author of, Cigarettes, Inc.: An Intimate History of Corporate Imperialism

    “Elspeth H. Brown queers fashion modeling in a much-needed, highly readable way, with anecdotes that will surprise and educate even the most seasoned of fashion studies scholars. Her skill as a historian and nuanced analyst are on clear display through quality scholarship that brings the disparate fields of queer theory, affect studies, and the history of capitalism into fruitful conversation. A must-read for scholars of media and the body!” — Elizabeth Wissinger, author of, This Year’s Model: Fashion, Media, and the Making of Glamour

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  • Description

    From the haute couture runways of Paris and New York and editorial photo shoots for glossy fashion magazines to reality television, models have been an ubiquitous staple of twentieth- and twenty-first-century American consumer culture. In Work! Elspeth H. Brown traces the history of modeling from the advent of photographic modeling in the early twentieth century to the rise of the supermodel in the 1980s. Brown outlines how the modeling industry sanitized and commercialized models' sex appeal in order to elicit and channel desire into buying goods. She shows how this new form of sexuality—whether exhibited in the Ziegfeld Follies girls' performance of Anglo-Saxon femininity or in African American models' portrayal of black glamour in the 1960s—became a central element in consumer capitalism and a practice that has always been shaped by queer sensibilities. By outlining the paradox that queerness lies at the center of capitalist heteronormativity and telling the largely unknown story of queer models and photographers, Brown offers an out of the ordinary history of twentieth-century American culture and capitalism.

    About The Author(s)

    Elspeth H. Brown is Professor of History at the University of Toronto, coeditor of Feeling Photography, also published by Duke University Press, and author of The Corporate Eye: Photography and the Rationalization of American Commercial Culture, 1884–1929.
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